Day 272 - Hoi An & My Son Ruins

This place is SOOO pretty...



Hoi An is kinda famous. I dunno if you've heard of it, but I hadn't. Until I realised it was the place that I HAD heard of. Because EVERYONE who's been to SE Asia seems to talk of this promised land where you can have a suit made for 30quid. and its AMAZING quality. If you didn't guess already, Hoi An is that place.



Anyway, Ady, Cat and Bonnie have kindly prearranged a little excursion for us out of Ho Chi Minh City, so after a brisk flight north for an hour and a 45 minute drive from the airport, we arrive in the sleepy market/fishing village of Hoi An. Its 10pm and almost everything is closed. But we wander out, find this cute restaurant with just 4 tables, order some food and are blown away at how amazing the food is. Fish wrapped in banana leaf, fried spring rolls with shrimp, these amazing fried wanton's covered in salsa just to name a few. this town would prove to yield no surprises on the food front - every restaurant would feed us EXQUISITE food. You should come here for that alone, forget about the suits.



Anyway, after an early night in the sleepiest town in the world, we lazily get up the next morning to explore. The town's central focus is its bustling market place, selling everything from souvenir chopsticks to every vegetable you could imagine. Its heaving with people, the steamy heat trapped beneath the tarpaulin covered stalls. The alleys between stalls are just big enough for a single-file line of people, but mopeds come speeding down them, beeping people aside as they go. Its exciting and vibrant and so authentic - tourists are overwhelmingly outnumbered by locals doing their regular shopping. I love it.



The town is beautiful - so picturesque - and that alone is the killer selling point of Hoi An. You can wander for hours along the beautiful calm waters of the river, around the narrow streets. Unfortunately, the only 'key' sight is a Japanese Bridge, which seems to appear in every guide book and poster for the place when in fact it doesn't capture the magic of the place at all. The town is about atmosphere and vibrancy and almost like you're sneaking into a local town, disguised as one of them.



Of course, its not. Wherever you walk, someone shouts 'Hello' at you, others try and drag you into their shop for a fitting or to make a dress for you. Others follow you, pretending to me interested in you, only to reveal they own a shop and they need your money to feed their kids. I'm a jaded traveller though - the london guys seem torn by some of their comments, but I just walk by, a quick shake of the head and a firm 'NO' and they seem to get the idea.

The rest of the day was spent wandering, ordering dresses, finding an ATM that works and watching our new favourite cable channel - Star Movies - which always seems to show a rubbish but GREAT film.

And the next day we're up early, dousing ourselves in suncream despite the overcast skies, and are taking a taxi 10minutes down the road to the nearby beach. Its rubbish weather, but that doesn't stop us, and with our towels laid down, the frisbee out and the swimmers on, we're almost ready to catch some sun when it comes out. Which it does about 2 hours later.

There's loads of hassle on the beaches. I've not had this before - so yeah, brazil maybe a little. People come up and try and sell you stuff. but they usually walk off when you say no. Not here - here, in hoi an, if you say no, they take a seat next to you and silently sit and wait for you change your mind. sometimes 15 minutes will pass, with just the odd yawn from them, or a poke with a stick (I reckon I got that cos the old woman fancied me). Its a bit annoying, but with no-one else on the beach, what are they supposed to do. Favourite moment - walking in other people's footprints with Ady and Cat along the beach. Then trying to push ady in the water. good times.



The next day, the guys were heading off to some mountain to climb, but needing a little 'alone' time I booked myself on a tour of the local ruins - apparently some of the oldest ruins on Vietnam's map. Now, I'm going to Cambodia in about 2 weeks, and if you don't already know, Angkor Wat is apparently THE place to see ruins. Its amazing. More on that in 2 weeks. But until then, I thought I'd whet my appetite with these bad boys, at a site called 'My Son' about an hour from Hoi An.



So leaving at 7am (urgh!) I take the late-arriving bus to a bus stop, where i get on another late-arriving bus, which then takes longer than expected and drops us at the foot of some small, tree-covered mountains about an hour and ahalf later. Its midday, and the sun is scorching. I'm sweating buckets, and my red t-shirt is doused a dark maroon from the sweat pouring from my back and chest. I look like I've been working out, its embarrassing.



But within minutes I'm on a jeep darting through the mountains, hanging out the side with wind blowing across my face and dust going in my eyes. Its exhilarating, and 10 minutes uphill drops me at the site of the first ruins. I'm aching to get exploring, despite the number of tourists, so stick my iPod headphones in, choose some ambient electronica to ease myself into the history, and casually stroll into the ruins leaving my guide and the rest of our group of 40-somethings behind to hear the details.





The place is pretty small, but its special. Its lush and green and overgrown and crumbling. I like the atmosphere - the symmetry and the sense of purpose. The buildings fit the landscape and ooze character and charm. I'm wandering round, trying to get photos without tourists in them, as Four Tet pounds in my headphones. I'm sure people are staring at me - in the sanctity of these temples with my tinny headphones blaring into my ears.





I wander the site for about an hour before there's not much else to explore, and slowly take the long walk back to the car park, hitching a ride with a jeep for the last stretch. Being alone is a novelty for me, not one I particularly enjoy, but this time its nice. the silence gives me time to think when I'm not being barraged by children shouting, french couples arguing or trying to understand the ramblings of the spanish guy with dreads on her mobile phone.





And after the air-conditioned return journey, I wander the streets of Hoi An back to the hotel, before meeting the others and discussing our various days adventures. It seems I missed a cracking day trip to the mountain, but I'm not upset.

And the evening was punctuated with a highly entertaining, if not exactly what I was after, Cooking Course. Held in one of the best (we were to find out) restaurants in the town, we're talked through the rolling of spring rolls and the the chopping of squid until we've all made some food for us to eat. Our chef is hilarious and embarrasses me by implying I'm too rough in bed (with reference to my inability to mix a salad gently). Its fun, and we get to meet a wicked Australian couple and their daughter Renee.





And tomorrow we're off to a local island about an hour away, snorkelling - one of my new favourite hobbies. It surely can't be as good as the Great Barrier Reef, but I'm not a snorkel snob... i don't think. We'll see. Until then its a dose of star movies and some cheap beers from our minibar.